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| http://www.guardian.co.uk |
I went to a cheese tasting a few days ago with José Luis Martín, technical director of the Fromagería @ the San Miguel Market. According to him a good cheese is the sum of many small details. Before entering on the subject of caring for the cheese- what I liked most about the exhibition- let´s face it we don´t want to ruin good expensive cheese because we didn´t know how to take good care of it .... I think I can speak a bit of the classification. This will help us later in the selection and care topics.
Los quesos pueden clasificarse de varias formas. Por ejemplo puede ser por su tipo de leche.- si ésta es termizada o pasteurizada. Los que no son pasteurizados conservan su flora autóctona lo que les otorga un sabor distinto. Pueden clasificarse también por su tratamiento térmico o por su tipo de coagulación. Aquí el cuajo, dependiendo de como se trate, le otorgará características al queso. A algunos los hará elásticos y de alta conservación como el Emmental o el Parmigiano Reggiano, los de coagulación mixta no requieren prensado ejemplo de ellos son el Brie o el Camembert; los hay de cuajo vegetal como las Tortas del Casar. Los de coagulación ácida o láctica como los quesos de cabra tampoco requieren prensado, tienen muy poco cuajo y son de fuerte acidificación. Mientras que a los azules se les añade penicillium o pan enmohecido para lograrlos. También se pueden clasificar según el tiempo de maduración- un queso de vaca a los 3 meses quizá ya pueda catalogarse como maduro mientras que eso nunca podría decirse de uno de cabra- o según el tipo de leche (vaca, cabra, oveja) según el contenido graso, su tamaño y hasta su textura.
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| http://www.nytimes.com |
Cheese can be classified several ways. For example it may be by type of milk. - If it is thermised or pasteurized. The ones that are not pasteurized retain their native flora which gives them a distinct flavor. They can also be classified by heat treatment or by type of clotting. By clotting and depending on the technique used, the rennet will give the cheese its characteristics. Some come out elastic and can last a long time such as Emmental or Parmigiano Reggiano, there are also mixed coagulation ones that don´t require pressing. Example of these are the Brie or Camembert, others can be made from vegetable rennet as the Tortas del Casar. The lactic acid or coagulation such as goat cheeses do not require pressing, have little rennet and their acidification is strong. While the Blue ones come out of adding penicillium or moldy bread to them. Cheese can also be classified according to the time of ripening- A cheese from cow´s milk that´s 3 months old may already be categorized as mature while that could never be said of a goat one -or by the type of milk (cow, goat, sheep) by fat quantity, size and even texture.
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| http://www.telegrph.co.uk |
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| http://www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk |
As you can see there are many variables to consider when classifying them and to know when a cheese can be at its optimum point. This is when the Afinador comes into the scene. It´s a technician who´s thoroughly knowledgeable of all the cheese stages that works in the cellars and who knows, according to ripening time and type of cheese, when it is at its best. Of course, we must also take ino account of the consumer´s taste.... For example, a Camembert can have 3 stages for consumption, from semi raw, going through a flux, creamy straw colored stage, until it is about to break down with a slight taste of ammonia ... We must also take into account it´s rind, rumor has it that: "The uglier outside the better inside" Even so, many markets prefer the beautiful rind, painted, uniform and undamaged. This, however, slows the development of the cheese.
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| savoirfaire-gironde.fr |
- Importante controlar tanto la humedad como el frío, éste no debe ser directo ya que seca y agrieta el queso.
- Se debe conservar en papel grueso - de tipo alimentario- y no en plástico.
- Mientras mas blando y mas pequeño sea el queso mas humedad y poca velocidad de aire necesita.
- El Brie y el Camembert deben envolverse en un paño húmedo para que sigan evolucionando; o se coloca con un vaso se agua en el sector en donde van las verduras en la nevera. Estos no deben comprarse si huelen a amoníaco y duran de 2-3 semanas.
- Al Munster o al Acehuche se le lava la corteza amarilla-narajana con agua con sal.
- Los azules son más delicados. Es recomendable no comprar más de 1 kg a la vez. Tampoco si tiene mucho o poco moho. Debe estar equilibrado y sólo debe "picar" al final. Bien conservado un queso azul puede durar hasta 2 meses.
- Los quesos duros son más duraderos y menos delicados. Si les sale moho en la corteza no pasa nada, es parte de su personalidad y se debe a que no está pintada con antifungicos.
- Una vez hayamos cortado el trozo que vamos a utilizar, agarrar un cuchillo y untar la grasa que haya soltado el queso con un cuchillo. Así este se sella y sigue madurando. Razón por la que es mejor comprar piezas grandes y que estén cerradas de queso Manchego por ejemplo, que pedazos pequeños de 250grms.
- Los quesos de oveja son los que mejor se conservan, sufren menos porque son mas grasos.
- Es importante tener el cuenta la temperatura fuera de la nevera. Si el queso suda, se liberan las grasas y éste se reseca y pierde calidad.
- Si quiero que el queso siga evolucionando se debe mantener entre 8º y 14Cº. En cambio si quiero pararla se debe mantener entre 2º y 4ºC.
- Una vez cortado el queso se tempera a los 30 min. y está listo para degustar.
Yes, evolution because we can not forget that cheese is a living product, which changes over time and is transformed gradually while it reaches our palate. That is why we must take into account these details to preserve and protect the cheese.
- To avoid dry cracked cheese control humidity and cold.
- Store in a thick food type paper, not plastic.
- The softer and smaller the cheese the more moisture and low air speed it needs.
- Brie and Camembert should be wrapped in a damp cloth to keep evolving, or placed along with a glass of water in the veggies drawer in the fridge. These should not be bought they smell like ammonia. They last for 2-3 weeks.
- Munster or Acehuche´s rind should be washed with salted water.
- The blue ones are more delicate. It is advisable not to buy more than 1 kg at a time. Also if they have too much ot too little mold. It should be balanced and should only be "sharp" at the end. Well preserved a blue cheese can last up to 2 months.
- Hard cheeses are more durable and less sensitive. If mold appears in the rind, don´t worry it's part of its personality and due to not being treated with antifungals.
- Once we cut the piece that we will use, grab a knife and spread the fat that has been released in the cheese with a knife. This will seal it and it will continues to mature. This is why it is better to buy large pieces that are closed ie Manchego cheese, instead of small 250grms pieces.
- Sheep cheeses are the ones that can last longer, they suffer less because they are more fatty.
- It is important to take into account the temperature outside the refrigerator. If cheese sweats, fats are released and it becomes dry and loses quality.
- If you want the cheese to continue to evolve, it should be kept between 8 and 14C º. But if I want to stop it, it must be kept between 2 º and 4 º C.
- Once cut, cheese reaches its optimal temperature after 30 min. and is ready to taste and enjoy.
Como un buen queso es la suma de muchos detalles, no sólo debemos sacarlo con tiempo para degustarlo. Es preciso que cada uno tengo su utensilio adecuado. Los quesos duros se cortan con cuchillo de doble mango y los Manchegos con cuchillo normal. Los blandos y los de corteza húmeda como los rulos de cabra con hilo y un Brie joven con cuchillo de huecos. Los quesos saben distinto cerca de la concha y vice versa. Cada uno debe ser manejado con metodología, cuidado y con cariño para que así nos brinde todo su potencial y a la hora de degustarlo podamos disfrutarlo a todo dar.
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| blog.didriks.com |
Since a good cheese is the sum of many details, not only do we have to take it out in time to enjoy it. It is also necessary to have the right utensils. Hard cheeses should be cut with double handle knife, whiile Manchegos with normal ones. The soft and wet rind ones, like goat cheese with wire and young Bries with hollow knives. Cheese tastes different near the rind and vice versa. Each one must be handled with methodology, care and affection so they give us their full potential and when it´s time to taste them we can enjoy them in full.
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| rock-ur-party.tablespoon.com |
Btw. los quesos que degustamos los proporcionó la Lechera de Burdeos, que como indican en su página web, nace con la ilusión de convertirse en un punto de reunión de amantes del queso y artesanos productores, de profesionales de la alta restauración y de expertos catadores. Este sitio ya lo habíamos descubierto Fonse y yo en una de sus visitas y es punto de obligada visita para quienes AMAMOS el queso. Ese día catamos un Epoise, un Tete de Moine, un Gruyere D´Alpase, un Saint Maure, un Manchego y un Shorpshire- este último uno que nunca había probado y para mi el mejor de la cata!
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| reinerlightagency.blogspot.com |
Btw, the cheeses we tasted that day were provided by La Lechera de Burdeos. As they state on their website they opened their store longing to be the place where cheese lovers, artisans and producers, people in the restaurant business and experts could get together to enjoy good quality cheese. My mom and I found this place a while ago on one of her trips and it´s a must go to place for those of us who LOVE cheese. That day we had an Epoise, a Tete de Moine, a Gruyere D´Alpase, a Saint Maure a Manchego and a Shopshire- the last one a totally new one for me and definitely the best one!
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